Shipment of Corel Kits Just In

Corel is one of the classic European ship model manufacturers that still produces some of the most stunning looking wooden ship model kits today. They’ve been producing classic wooden ship model kits since 1971, and their kits are among the most recognizable today.

Corel’s 74-gun ship of the line HMS Bellona.

We just received a new shipment of Corel kits, replenishing our stocks. 41 kits to choose from and everything we list in stock is ready to ship TODAY!

Corel’s 17th Century Swedish warship Wasa includes some 350 gilded metal decorations.

The Wasa Gun Deck Section is a small, but very detailed kit.

Corel is well known for their model of large 17th and 18th century warships, best suited for advanced ship modelers, but they also has a range of smaller subjects, suitable for the beginning builder, or the experienced builder looking for a smaller project.

Corel’s 1:25-scale Chesapeake Bay “Flattie”

Corel’s 1:25-scale “Sloup” French fishing boat

Check out the full range of Corel wooden ship model kits at Ages of Sail.

New Windjammer Kits Exclusive

Ages of Sail has received a shipment of three remaining  Windjammer series kits that were originally produced in 2009-2011 as a combined venture between Billing Boats USA (now part of Ages of Sail) and Billing Boats Denmark. The kits include: the Monterey Fishing Boat, the Hoga Harbor Tug and the Vikingship Nordlandsbåden. These are in stock and ready to ship.

 

Monterey Fishing Boat

Billing Boats Monterey Fishing Boat

The RC capable Monterey Fishing Boat is back. This 1:20-scale model measures just 19.3″ long and 5.7″ high. The prop and propeller shaft are designed for RC operation. The original Montereys were once a common sight in San Francsico where they were built as an adaptation of the Italian felucca.

 

Harbor Tug Hoga (YT-146)

Billing Boats Harbor Tug Hoga

The Hoga is another returning kit from Billing Boats.  She was a United States Navy Woban-class district harbor tug named after the Sioux Indian word for “fish.” After World War II, the tug was known as Port of Oakland and then City of Oakland when she was a fireboat in that city.

Launched in 1940, she was assigned to duty at Pearl Harbor. When the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, she fought for 48 hours without a break, putting out fires, towing damaged warships and rescuing seamen.

The kit is a 1:50-scale model of this distinguished vessel measuring 24.4″ long and 12.2″ high.

Nordlandsbåden Vikingship

Billing Boats Nordlandsbåder

Nordlandsbåden is a type of Vikingship from Northern Norway, and dates from the 17th Century. As a fishing boat it saw its most popular days from the 18th Century until the appearance of engine-driven fishing boats.

These boats were extremely efficient and seaworthy. They represent a shipping culture and form which originates from the days of the Vikings. The boats are still built today, and they compete in races and regattas along the Northern coasts.

The Nordlandsbåden kit is 1:20-scale, measures 28″ long and 28″ high.

Check out these and other Billing Boats kits at Ages of Sail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A 1/72-Scale HMS Mercury Card Model

This past weekend, we had a vendor table at the IPMS show in San Jose, and had a chance to talk to many people, including a number of customers. One of them, Ron Palma, is building a 1/72-scale model of the British sixth-rate frigate HMS Mercury from Shipyards Laser Cardboard Kit series.

Yesterday, he sent along some progress photos and said that we could share them, which we are very excited to do!

Ron has the hull mostly completed and copper sheathed. Keep in mind that while the frieze work is included in the kit, the whole model does not come pre-printed. So, the excellent paint job is Ron’s handiwork. He commented that the cannon barrels have been taped to protect them from the clear-coat overspray he gave the hull.

Ron’s done an outstanding job, but commented on how well this Shipyard kit has been engineered. He’s getting pretty close to starting the rigging on this model. When completed, the 3-masted warship model will measure 34-1/2″ long.

We’ll keep you posted on Ron’s very inspiring card model. In the meantime, if you are interested in this particular kit, you can find it here on Ages of Sail: HMS Mercury Laser Cardboard Kit. These kits include all parts laser-cut, with pre-printed frieze art, cast resin figurehead, pre-cut and printed cloth sails, turned brass cannons and swivel guns, wooden dowels for the masts and yardarms, rigging line, paint and brushes, plus an a nice photographic set of instructions.

We also carry the smaller 1/96-scale Paper Model kit. The Paper Model series kits are more basic, but include all the basic parts pre-printed in color on high quality paper. You are required to laminate paper to create the necessary thickness for the parts. You’ll also have to provide your own dowels and sail material. However, we’ll soon be adding Shipyard’s masting sets and sail sets to our website as we have all those items in stock now. Check out the kit on Ages of Sail: HMS Mercury Paper Model.

Watch for future updates on Ron’s HMS Mercury model.

New Deans Marine Shipment

We just received a new shipment of kits from Deans Marine kits from the U.K.  We’ve updated our inventory and now have most of the kits back in stock. Here are some examples of these fine kits:

 

For those of you who are not familiar with this line of kits, here’s a text clip from the Deans Marine website:

All of the models in the Deans Marine range are designed to be working radio controlled scale models to constant scales i.e. warships to 1/96-1/100, launches to 1/24. service craft 1/48.  Each model is tried and tested on the water for sea keeping and handling.
Hulls are of lightweight fibreglass. Decks and superstructures are constructed from computer printed, 6 colour coded plastic.
The kits are complete with fittings cast in lightweight alloy for the fine detail, with larger items cast in plastic to save weight but retaining all the detail required.
To complement this, fragile items such as stanchions, ladders, dial sights and lattice masts are in etched brass. All kits are complete with rudder, tiller arm and lock bolt, prop tubes and stainless steel shafts.  Our Kits contain a full size plan or plans, instruction book with suggested motors, couplings etc.

We carry more than two dozen different Deans Marine kits. A few of these have yet to be added to our website including the Z37 Narvik, Kristina Motorlogger, Mercandian President, Zulu, Dufresne, Pieter Boele, Medea, and the M15 Monitor. Look for these on our website in the next couple weeks.

Deans Marine kits are designed for RC operation, but also make great display models.

Check them out at Ages of Sail.

Ages of Sail at IPMS Show “Silicon Valley Classic #4”

The International Plastic Modelers Society’s Silicon Valley Scale Modelers club will be hosting a model show and contest on Saturday, March 4th in San Jose. Ages of Sail will be participating this year with a table in the vendor section. Come visit us!

See Details

The event is free to the viewing public, with a charge only for entering models in the show. It takes place at:

Napredak Hall, 770 Montague Expwy, San Jose Ca 95131

Models are mostly plastic, and mostly modern armor, aircraft, cars and sci-fi, but there are occasionally wooden and other models entered, sometimes sailing ships.

The South Bay Model Shipwrights club will have a table set up to talk to people and show them about wooden ship model building, and will be right next to the Ages of Sail table.

If you have some time on Saturday, come visit us and check out the fantastic models you’ll see on display!

AL’s Independence – Headrails and Rigging

Shipmodeler Clare Hess posts an update on his colonial schooner build, which is based on the Independence kit from Artesania Latina, but has been heavily modified using fine woods, such as castello boxwood, pear and beech, and aftermarket fittings, such as blocks, cannons, carriages, gratings, and rigging line.

The Ship Modeler

Yes, I’m finally getting around to wrapping up the Colonial Schooner Independence. I’ve worked on it here and there, but hadn’t made any blog posts about in quite some time.

The last task that I was concerned about was to construct some headrails from scratch. Mostly, this is one of those tasks which is painful, because the brain says it’s painful. In actuality, it wasn’t that bad, but did take some mental work to wrap my head around where to even begin.

I found some examples that were more complex and finally found some that were simpler. I made sure that the images of those simpler ones became embedded in my brain. So, here’s what I came up with…

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I used castello boxwood for these, starting out by cutting them from thick sheet stock. Then, I cleaned them up and carved away the excess in such a way that it kind…

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Amati Swedish Gunboat Build – Part I

The Ship Modeler


While I haven’t really considered this among my list of current builds, I am continuing this project for our local build group project. There are still 5 of us, each working on his own model. We last got together back in late August, and I have hardly touched it, hoping that those who are a behind will have some time to get caught up.

Here are some photos showing the early progress on my model.

This kit’s hull is supposed to be single-planked using 1mm beech wood. This seemed awfully thin for a single planking layer, so we decided to use some balsa filler blocks to fill in between the frames. This worked out quite nicely. I think it was the first time any of us tried the technique.

One of the first things I did was to cut away the exposed portion of the strongback/keel. My original plan was…

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The Crowdy Head Lighthouse – A Shipyard Card Model, Part 2

Welcome to part 2 of the article on building Shipyard’s Crowdy Head Lighthouse card model kit. Ship modeler Clare Hess describes some of his experiences building this Laser Cardboard Kit.

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1/72-scale Crowdy Head Lighthouse model by Clare Hess


To recap from my previous post, this is my second completed paper model. The first was the British naval cutter HMS Alert, which I build from Shipyard’s line of Paper Model kits. The Crowdy Head Lighthouse kit, I chose from Shipyard’s Laser Cardboard Kit line because it is not all that much more expensive than the other versions of this model, plus it includes paints, brushes, and landscaping material consisting of fake grass and real sand.

The kit provides all the paper parts pre-cut, which is a big time saver, and ideal for people who don’t mind paying a little more money for a simpler project. This model took me about three weeks to construct, though I only worked on it a bit at a time.

Construction begins very simply, as the thicker card stock pieces fit together quite cleanly, and your model become 3-dimensions very quickly.

By the way, don’t every punch out the card stock pieces unless you want an ugly looking model, you bend, crease, and damage the integrity of the card stock. Always cut with a sharp knife, the sharper and thinner, the better. I often use a scalpel, but for this model, I found a #1 handle hobby knife worked well, just make sure your blades are sharp.

Also, if you don’t have one, get yourself a cutting mat. The one shown is a Fiskars brand, which I picked up at Michael’s craft store, but Ages of Sail carries the Modelcraft Tools brand that includes a large range of sizes. You don’t really need anything big for this model, so the small or medium sized matts should do fine.

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For glue, I used Aleene’s Tacky Glue almost exclusively. This stuff is like a thick Elmer’s white glue, and it was a pleasure to use – I highly recommend it. But, get the 4 oz bottle, not the little 2/3 oz ones that come in a the multi-packs.  I picked up the stuff at Ace Hardware, but you can find it at most fabric or craft stores.

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Later on, there are some other glues that will prove helpful, specifically thin cyanoacrylate or CA glue, which is useful for strengthening small pieces made of thick card stock. More on that later.

You’ll need to do some painting pretty quickly. The doors and window frames need to be painted before mounting and you can do that right on the laser-cut sheet. Don’t worry about glue not sticking to paint. I found that Aleene’s holds well, at least to the paint that’s included in the Shipyard boxed kits.

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Now, on the matter of the Shipyard paint, it appears to be the same stuff they used to include in sealed tubes, which was an artist’s acrylic brand from Poland called Renesans. They’re now in jars, which seem to dry out a bit on the shelf. If this is the case with your model, not to worry. I found that adding water and stirring the paint worked very well, though it took a bit of stirring on my kit to even it out.

Now, I’ve used various brands of paints, but I have to say that I REALLY like this stuff. It dries to a matte finish and has a little bit of transparency to it, so if you paint over printed parts with a thin coat, you can still see the printing. I used it on my HMS Alert model and thought it worked very well on both paper and wood surfaces. The only problem is that the brand is not sold here. But, if you buy enough of these boxed kits, you should end up with a small supply.

You’re going to have to mix the paint a bit. The brown paint is VERY dark and you might want to lighten it up a bit with one of the provided colors. The same is true later on for the lighthouse’s blue trim.

Now for the windows, the kit includes a small sheet of clear acetate film. You can easily cut this to size with scissors. Gluing these into place, I used just a small touch of Aleene’s at the outside edges, top and bottom, keeping it from marring the window surface. When dry, I applied more to the sides. Don’t worry too much about the appearance of the edges of the window frame as they’re applied from the inside of the walls and are hidden from sight. The same is true of the doors.

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The biggest issue I ran into was just making sure to double check that you got the right piece on in the right direction. There are a number of pieces that look very similar and it can be a little confusing. So, look carefully at the directions.

If you cut a part free and it does not have a part number you may want to lightly mark it in pencil on a side that will not be visible on the completed model. This is particularly true with the parts that have the same shape. Of course, you don’t want to remove anything from the laser-cut sheets that you don’t need to, but sometimes they pop loose on their own.

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Instructions

The instructions in these boxed kits seem to be better than for the Paper Model series kits, though I have to admit that I’ve only seen the Paper Model series of ship models.

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I showed this same image in my previous post, but it bears looking at again. As you can see, the instructions have essentially no text, but outline all the steps clearly in detailed diagrams. The asterisk (*) next to a part indicates that it should be painted prior to assembly, and the letter F indicates a piece of clear acetate.

Some parts may be hard to find, but they’re there, somewhere on one of the sheets. Particularly difficult are the door knobs. But, honestly, I found them so hard to cut free from the laser sheet that I ended up destroying some and giving up. If I want door knobs, I’ll use pin heads. This was a detail I simply chose to omit.

Details like the window sills, I found to be a bit confusing, but the photos of the completed model helped a lot and it all made sense in the end.

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The Light

I think the hardest features of the kit include the railing around the light and the assembly of the windows of the light. The window frames are very thin and delicate. What I learned was to use scissors to carefully cut the frames free. Cut close to the laser-cut line and the exertion will generally pop the laser-cut loose, nice and cleanly. If there’s a little extra, don’t worry about it.

Lay the frames out on the acetate piece on a flat and level surface, then take some liquid floor finish, they used to call it Future but now it’s Pledge Floor Care Finish (you can buy it at hardware stores or the grocery store, though you may have to look around for it), and drip it onto the acetate, so that it fills the frames. Let it dry as long as it takes. The floor finish will seal the frame and the glass together… and just look at that shine!

85263135When it’s all dry, you can then use scissors to cut free the frames with their windows attached. Then, you can glue them to the model using the Aleene’s Tacky Glue. I’m sorry I don’t have any photos of the process, but it’s pretty straight forward. Just keep in mind that any contaminants in the floor finish and on the window will be permanent fixtures.

Now, dealing with the railing, the stanchions are all laser cut, as are the holes for the wire railing provided in the kit. However, getting the wire into these holes will require you to drill them out. I don’t recall the size of the bit, probably something between a #72 and a #68.

The problem you’ll run into is that the cardboard will want to come apart if you start drilling it. This is where the thin CA comes in handy. After cutting the parts free from the laser-cut sheet, carefully touch some thin CA into one end of the stanchion, just be careful not to get whatever your holding the stanchion with glued to the stanchion.

If you take a straight pin and poke it securely into the hole for the railing (do this by laying the part on the cutting mat so you don’t bend up the part), you can probably hold it enough to allow you to wick the CA into the part. After the CA has dried, you’ll find the card stock piece much stiffer and easier to drill.

Now, I used a pin vise for drilling, but still ended up bending up some of the stanchions. I suspect a high speed drill, like a small hobby drill press or a rotary tool is less likely to cut the hole more cleanly and with less stress on the part. In any case, like I said, I had a few bent stanchions, but I made due anyway. Once on the model, you can straighten those things out a bit.

Next, you can just thread the wire through all the stanchions, then space them out to fit on the lighthouse deck and glue them down carefully. You’ll need to cut away any excess wire, and try to get the ends cut close to a stanchion, so you can use some gap filling CA where it won’t be so noticeably.

 

I’ll leave the painting and landscaping to the kit instructions and your own sensibilities. I will just say to use light coats and don’t soak the paper, as it will wrinkle or get soggy. Let things thoroughly dry first if you intend to add another light coat.

This was a fun and interesting project and a nice, quick diversion from wooden ship modeling. It is the smallest of the Shipyard lighthouse kits, and I think it makes a great starter kit – a perfect introduction to paper models and to modeling in general.

Here are some photos of my finished model. I intend to mount it on a nice wooden base. I hope you’ll try out one of the Shipyard kits, even if it’s not a lighthouse. Check out the ship kits and the quay port dioramas at Ages of Sail, the US import for Shipyard products.

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Amati Swedish Gunboat Build – Part 3

The latest update on a build of Amati’s Swedish Gunboat 1775 kit, AM1550, under construction (note that sometimes you’ll see the kit with the Italian name Cannoniera Svedese).

The Ship Modeler

A couple weeks ago, we had another quarterly meeting of ship modelers at the Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum. This is the group that includes our group build of the Amati Swedish Gunboat kit. We’ve been getting a lot of rain lately, so it’s literally put a damper on ship model meeting attendance over the past couple months. But, one of the other members of the group build showed up, and it was enough to inspire me to press on with this build.

The other builder is new to ship modeling and he had questions about bending wood for the railing on the boat. This got me pushing ahead. Hopefully, other builders are continuing construction on their models. I feel a little bad about leaving anyone behind on the build, but we’ve had the kit for 8 months, and it’s a very small and simple model.

At this point, I’d like…

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HSPMS Newsletter for January 2017

One of the ship model clubs in our area just sent out their monthly newsletter. So, we thought we’d share what they’re up to!

Hyde Street Pier Model Shipwrights

The new newsletter has been posted on our Meeting Notes page, which you can always access from the menubar above. But, to make things easy, here’s a link to the pdf document for your reading enjoyment.

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Hyde-Street-2017-01-January News

Feel free to pass this along to anyone who might be interested in reading it.

Happy ship modeling!

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